© Richard Randall

Caribbean

Sundries

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 2.5 License.

Lilongwe

Lilongwe is the capital of Malawi.

Understand

The capital of Malawi, but not its largest city (that honour belongs to Blantyre), Lilongwe is fairly reasonably sized with a population of about 250,000.

Orientation

Lilongwe is divided into the Old Town (to the South) and the New Town (to the North) with the Lilongwe Nature Sanctury between the two. The Old Town is built around the former village of Lilongwe, while the New Town (also called City Centre or Capital City) sprung up after former dictator Hastings Banda moved the capital from Blantyre to Lilongwe.

Getting There

By Plane

Lilongwe's Kamuzu International Airport (LLW) fields regular flights to Johannesburg, Harare, Nairobi and Zimbabwe, as well as domestic services to Blantyre, Mzuzu and Karonga. For neighbouring Zambia, there are flights both to capital Lusaka and safari destination Mfuwe. An international departure tax of US$30 (cash only) is charged for all passengers with foreign passports (pay it on the first floor before heading up to the departure hall), while domestic departure tax is K200.

The airport is about 25 km north of town and the taxis charge a flat K2500 (US$20) for the journey.

By car

Lilongwe is about 110 kilometers from Mchinji on the Zambian border. Taxis generally charge upwards of K5000 for the trip.

Buy

• Old Town Mall. Catering mostly to the tourist, expat, and wealthy Malawian community, Old Town Mall offers two impressive art and craft galleries, a DVD rental shop, grocery store catering to expat tastes, travel agencies, and upmarket clothing stores. Mamma Mia's Italian Restaurant (see below) is located in Old Town Mall.

• Crossroads Complex, Mchinji Roundabout, Lilongwe's newest shopping mall, with a couple of decent gift shops, a post office, a petrol station, two ATMs and a couple of fast food joints.

• 7-Eleven. No relation to the American outfit, this is just a popular supermarket (complete with in-house butchery), that stocks a wide range of local and imported products.

Eating

Mid-range

• Don Brioni's Bistro, next to the Old Town post office. Serving pizza, pasta, steaks and daily specials. Good food in generous quantities. $5-$10 for a main dish.

• Bohemia Cafe, along the road from Don Brioni's. Open for breakfast and lunch. Light meals (breakfast, toasted sandwiches, baked potato, quiche), fresh fruit juice, very good tea and coffee and great cakes. About $5 for for a sandwich, a cup of tea and a cake.

Splurge

• Mamma Mia, Old Town Mall. Lilongwe's fanciest Italian restaurant, much favored by the expat community so reservations strongly advised on weekends. Real Italian pizza, pasta and more, but expect to pay over K2000/head (US$20) for a full meal with a glass of wine, the food quality is a little uneven.

Drink

There's a place for drinking like bwandiro (area 47) where there are a lot of pubs. There is now a new Pirate casino where people usually go almost every day up to midnight.

Budget

• Kiboko Camp, to the south of the Old Town, tel. +265 (0)1 754 978 / (0)8 828 384, info@kiboko-safaris.com,. Camping, chalets and dorms.

Mid-range

• Kiboko Town Hotel, in the centre of the Old Town, above Don Brioni's Bistro, tel. +265 (0)1 751 226 / (0)9 838 485, KTH@kiboko-safaris.com. Has its own cafe and a residents-only bar. Used to be the Imperial Hotel. Clean, pleasant and friendly, in a very convenient location. $45-$75 (all are en-suite, more expensive rooms have a bath and TV).

Splurge

• Cresta Crossroads Hotel, Crossroads Complex, Mchinji Roundabout, tel. +263-175-0333, [3]. Opened December 2004, this four-star hotel operated by a South African chain offers modern if somewhat uninspiring comfort. Pool, jacuzzi, gym, speedy wireless Internet, and a shopping mall next door. Single/double from US$120/140.

• Capital Hotel, [4]. Also uninspiring but comfortable with very similar facilities to Cresta Crossroads Hotel. En-suite double rooms from $110.

Oceania